Monday, April 21, 2008

RED Rocks - Re-cap for the week

Red Rocks climbing trip – April 2008


Sat - Tuna + Chips wall – First Pull out - ( Steve + Don) :
1. SD – lead Tuna + Chips 5.7 trad start to bolted route, rounded holds good attention getter for first climb of week.
2. Don – same climb
3. SD – 5.5 ( Route name?) easy gully to hanging belay
4. Don P2 same route to top – rappel off

Sunday - Group Therapy - 5.7 – ( Don + Steve) :
1. SD - Easy first pitch
2. Don - Fun off width pitch
3. SD - Up more
4. Don Pitch 4+5 Across to Huge right end of roofs
5. Steve- Up scary – crazy roof - chimney – CRUX of route for sure – then run out sections above to belay
6. Don traverse – walk left to final corner. Walk off

Monday – Olive Oil - 5.7 – (JDW + SD) :
1. JDW – Tricky bulge to sandy alcove
2. SD – Steep juggy crack up wall – Fantastic Pitch combined pitch 2 +3
3. JDW – face across right to groove system to Big belay ledge
4. SD – Traverse across face a bit more to corner system. Best pitch of the week for me. Thin crack to cool moves up HUGE corner system with chimney, off width + more cool moves up Steep corner to top. Wait for Ben + Don + all walk off.

Tuesday - Birdland –5.7 - ( Don – Bob + SD ) :
1. Bob – Pitch one just right of line I did in 2007
2. SD - Face / chimney pitch very interesting
3. Don – Left traverse ( BOLT PITCH) then steep moves thru notch
4. SD – Traverse to right run- out fun easy climbing,
5. Don - $$$$ pitch up FANTASTIC HAND crack. RAP off

Wed – Cat in the Hat – 5.7 – (Steve + Don ) :
1. SD – Start had very difficult move section maybe 20-30 feet up, I would say 5.8 move, No left feet and rounded holds leaning the wrong way. At least I did not fall. Nice big ledge above but bolts on 2nd tier and I missed and made natural anchor.
2. Don – P 2+3 short to upper great wall
3. SD – Fantastic steep long (did I say steep), may have been my 2nd best lead of the week.
4. Don Swing around corner for final crack pitch. Don, Steve Bob + Natasha all Rap together.

Thurs – Jonny Vegas + Solar Slab – 5.7 + 5.6 – ( JDW, Olga + SD ) :
1. J. Vegas – JDW – steep nice climbing.
2. SD more steep fun climbing + a bit run out w / solid 5.7 moves.
3. JDW – (P 3+4) combined - swing around right side of roof + up steep wall + skip P3 anchor + go to top.
4. Solar Slab – SD - Run out slab start to tricky pro on steep wall.
5. JDW out left on ramp to tricky / slab corner,
6. SD – Crack system
7. JDW - Left facing corner with tough moves
8. SD - Hand crack – Hanger missing on @ Belay
9. JDW – (P 6+7) combined – RAP off to TOP Jonny Vegas. My stupid decision to Rap with a party of 3 also going down, then two other climbers asked to join – because they only had one rope. Turned into Rap from Hell 2-3 hours for 3 raps

Friday – Geronimo – ( Natasha + SD - Bob + Don) – 5.6:
1. SD – Steep + Fun, BIG holds – great gear.
2. Natasha – Nice route
3. SD – Great pitch
4. Natasha Final pitch – all RAP off + work ropes – RAPS are bad – one double rap + 4 single raps. I do not recommend this route because of RAPS.

Sat – Purline Pillar - 5.8 – ( JDW + SD) :
1. SD – Chimney Grovel
2. JDW 1st 5.8 pitch exciting moves but too short.
3. SD – COOL traverse out and moves up steep wall with 2 bolts, then more Chimney HELL. Very rough hanging belay
4. JDW more chimney to BIG ledge
5. SD – 2nd 5.8 pitch - nice stuff (watch those Ball – maypops). Move right for belay.
6. JDW – final pitch to TOP with bolts on face left of corner nice, but finish in more chimney stuff. WALK off

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